Banana-leaf parcels of snapper, hand-ground aromatic bumbu, kemangi, tomato, salam, and lime leaves
Pepes is an Indonesian technique in which seasoned food is enclosed in banana leaves and steamed, grilled, or cooked by both methods. Pepes ikan applies it to fish: the leaf traps moisture and aromatic oils while a final pass over charcoal perfumes the parcel and blisters the wrapper. Regional spice pastes differ, but shallot, garlic, chili, turmeric, ginger or galangal, lemongrass, tomato, salam leaf, lime leaf, and kemangi are characteristic partners. This generous snapper version is naturally high in protein. The banana leaf is a cooking wrapper rather than food, and warming it first makes it supple enough to fold without splitting.
- Prep
- 35 mins
- Cook
- 25 mins
- Marinate
- 30 mins
- Total
- 1 hour 30 mins
- Serves
- 6
- Difficulty
- Intermediate
The recipe
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Before you start
Portion and dry the fish before seasoning it with salt and lime. Toast the candlenuts and shrimp paste, then pound or process the bumbu until cohesive but still textured. Wipe the banana leaves clean and pass them briefly over a low flame or through boiling water until glossy and flexible. Prepare toothpicks or kitchen string before assembling.
Ingredients
For the fish
For the bumbu spice paste
For wrapping
For serving
Quantities change with servings; cooking times stay the same.
Equipment
- Mortar and pestle paid link
- Food processor paid link
- Large skillet paid link
- Steamer with lid paid link
- Charcoal grill paid link
- Basting tongs paid link
- Kitchen string paid link
- Chef’s knife paid link
- Cutting board paid link
- Instant-read thermometer paid link
Method
Season the fish. Toss the snapper with salt and lime juice and refrigerate while the spice paste is prepared.
Grind the bumbu. Pound the shallots, garlic, red and bird’s-eye chilies, turmeric, ginger, galangal, lemongrass, candlenuts, shrimp paste, palm sugar, and coriander to a coarse paste.
Cook the paste. Heat the sunflower oil in a skillet over medium heat and fry the bumbu for 8 to 10 minutes until fragrant, thick, and no longer raw. Cool for 10 minutes.
Marinate the fish. Coat the snapper with the cooled bumbu and refrigerate for 30 minutes.
Soften the leaves. Pass each clean banana-leaf rectangle briefly over a low flame until pliable, taking care not to burn holes.
Build the parcels. On each leaf place one salam leaf, fish, tomato, shredded lime leaf, kemangi, and spring onion. Spoon over remaining bumbu.
Seal securely. Fold the long sides over the fish, tuck in the ends, and secure each packet with toothpicks or kitchen string.
Steam the pepes. Arrange the parcels in a steamer and cook over steadily simmering water for 15 to 18 minutes until the fish reaches 63°C.
Finish and serve. Grill the parcels over hot charcoal for 2 to 3 minutes per side until the leaves blister and smell smoky, then serve with jasmine rice and cucumber.
Chef’s notes
Fresh turmeric stains hands and boards; wear gloves and use a non-porous work surface.
Cooking the bumbu first removes the harshness of raw shallot and gives the short-steamed fish a complete flavor.
Warm banana leaves only until glossy and flexible. Brittle leaves tear, while charred leaves develop holes.
Leave space between steamer parcels so steam can circulate around each one.
Open packets away from the face because a concentrated burst of hot aromatic steam escapes.
Tips and variations
Whole small mackerel, tilapia, or sea bream are traditional-style alternatives; score them and adjust steaming time to their thickness.
Kemangi has a distinctive citrus-clove aroma. Lemon basil is the closest practical substitute and should remain separate from ordinary sweet basil.
If salam leaves are unavailable, omit them rather than treating dried Mediterranean bay as an identical replacement.
A very hot oven grill can blister the steamed parcels when charcoal is unavailable, though it will add less smoke.
Do not serve the banana leaf as edible. It perfumes and protects the fish but is peeled back at the table.
Serve with
Give each diner two closed parcels on a plate with rice and cucumber. Opening the leaf at the table releases the lemongrass, turmeric, basil, and charcoal aroma; fold the darkened leaf outward to frame the bright fish and tomato.
Storage
Cool unopened cooked parcels promptly and refrigerate for up to 2 days. Reheat in a steamer until the fish reaches 74°C. The cooked fish can be frozen for up to 1 month, but remove it from the banana leaf first because the wrapper becomes brittle.
Nutrition per serving (estimated)
- 600 kcal
- Calories
- 52 g
- Protein
- 56 g
- Carbohydrates
- 18 g
- Fat
- 4 g
- Fibre
Allergens
Contains fish, tree nuts from candlenuts, and crustacean from shrimp paste. Check shrimp paste and spices for gluten, soy, and cross-contact declarations. Raw candlenuts should not be eaten; toast and cook them thoroughly.
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Questions
What does pepes mean?
It refers to an Indonesian banana-leaf cooking technique used for fish, chicken, tofu, mushrooms, and other foods.
Is pepes ikan steamed or grilled?
It can be steamed, grilled, or both. Steaming cooks gently and a final grill adds the prized banana-leaf smoke.
Can I eat the banana leaf?
No. Open it as a wrapper and eat the fish and aromatics inside.
Why cook the spice paste before wrapping?
The fish steams quickly, so preliminary frying ensures dense roots and raw shallot taste fully cooked.
Can the parcels be assembled ahead?
Yes. Refrigerate them for up to 6 hours and steam directly from chilled, allowing a few extra minutes.
